Photography

THE COLLECTOR'S KYOTO. Start at 06:30 — the first hour after sunrise, before the buses arrive. Walk past the third gate at Fushimi Inari and the tripods disappear. By 08:30, the clay walls of Higashiyama have that kodachrome warmth you can't replicate. By noon, the light goes flat and you switch to interiors — second-floor kissaten with their 1970s wood, their bean coffee, their morning sets. The photographer's Japan is a matter of timing, not equipment.